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It does not matter in which region of Russia you live. During the cold season, the chemicals with which the road is covered contribute to the development of corrosive zones on car bodies, not only domestic production, but also foreign cars. Do not drive in the winter? And here the problem does not pass by! In humid climatic zones, the destruction of the metal, albeit not so fast, is observed with the same success. The history of the fight against rust began with solutions of citric and oxalic acid. Today, a new product is struggling with corrosion. We find out which rust converter is better for a car, what costs we are talking about, how to work with it.

Using a converter is a modern way of dealing with rust on a car.

Do you know why rust is so interesting? That:

• After the first appearance, the speed of its propagation only increases on the way to the through hole in the body.
• With the usual “smearing” of a rusty place, rust spreads even better, while remaining unnoticed.

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Rust converter Acquaintance

In order to prevent, and best of all - completely eliminate the spread of rust on the body, it would be better to exclude water and oxygen from reaching the metal surface. And what will help us the best of its kind rust converter? Yes, it is the protection of metal layers. Neutral chemical compounds appear at the moment of applying the transducer to the surface, forming a protective sheet, a thin layer.

Each jar contains acids that interact with rust. The most popular guest here is orthophosphoric acid or zinc salts instead. Zinc salts - galvanized steel. Galvanized steel - greater resistance to deformation and rust.

The process of action of the transducer from the inside

Corrosion is exposed to acidic elements of the converter, after which a new compound, orthophosphoric acid, appears. In addition to the acidic components, the composition of the jar is teeming with many other elements, as a result of which a small deposit is formed on the upper layers of the metal, which was discussed above.

Product types

Wherever you go, wherever you ask, two types of transducers are considered common: zinc and acid. We will understand in order that you better understand which product to choose.

Based on zinc. “The most successful and popular, sometimes not even equal to their competitors due to the great superiority” - say the experts. Zinc, settled on rust, instantly eliminates its reappearance. But before applying with a metal brush or emery, you should clean the rusty area, and then with an electrolytic solution of zinc. If a grayish shade is visible on the surface, it is time to apply a converter. Pickups will find something to find fault with, pointing to a long processing time, which is incomparable with the treatment with saline solutions. Yes, this is true, but we want to find out which one is better and not how quick and easy.

After the "Tsinkare" go acidic products. It is necessary to relate them rather to the good old methods. Do not underestimate the converter on the acid. At a minimum, communities of car enthusiasts with a huge amount of acid converters can prove their usefulness and effectiveness. Moreover, the process is not complicated and fast. You are lucky if you find rust at the initial stage of its development. You clean the area by applying an acid solution on it, and you do it all on time. In time means not delaying for a long time, but also not quickly. So we avoid the deformation of the body and the excess exposure to chemicals. The metal brush already discussed above comes into play if the rust layer is more serious and the corrosion has been spreading for several years.

One way or another, the matter must be done to the end, otherwise wait for the rust to recur, and in a more serious stage.

Product Modifications

Here we want to present one modification of the converter, namely with additives that contribute to the transformation of the rust layer, for example, into the ground. So they are called - converters rust to soil. The history of such products began in Germany, when elements with silicone were added to the composition.

Germans - they are great. But on the forums there is an opinion that once again trying this solution on your body is not the safest idea. The paintwork around the applied layer can be damaged, so it’s up to you to try or not.

Choose the best

Now we will determine which rust converter is better for cars. Consider a few products, we conclude.

Let's start with the goods Hi Gear worth 380 for 250 grams.

• Converter to ground.
• Low cost in the presence of Chinese counterparts.
• Forms a surface, steady against moisture, blacking out it.

A good option. We look further and understand which is better.

Runway. The product is less democratic in price, working according to the same "scheme". When used properly, a black primer can be seen on which you can safely apply paint.

• Boasts a lot of positive feedback.
• Picky for changes in temperature and space, rather capricious.

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Tsinkar - a representative of the group "cheap and cheerful." Almost 4/5 of all reviews are positive. The only drawback is a long process, which lazy motorists will not really like. However, in our opinion, this option is the best of the best. By the way, not only sprays offered on the market. Pastes and liquids are also gaining momentum in sales.

Note to the driver

Before you use the mixture, find out the quality of the paintwork. A lot of cars, the surface of which is difficult to paint after the formation of a protective layer. This is due to poor adhesion.

A small tutorial for those who did not find a converter in the store, and is going to do everything with their own hands, in terms of their own garage.

1. As the power source we can choose the battery. It should supply 12–30 V. In addition, we stock up with soldering acid, a piece of zinc, a clean rag and a wire, preferably a rather large length.
2. Make a tampon, which is based on zinc. Apply cotton wool on a zinc piece, and after - a clean rag.
3. We equip a piece of zinc with a self-tapping screw, to which a wire is attached, leading to the positive battery terminal through a 12-volt lamp.
4. The surface of the tampon is treated with soldering acid, wear gloves.
5. We achieve a gray coating on a rusty surface during contact with a tampon for 5–10 minutes.
6. We wash away all the acid that remains, and wait until it dries.

Voila! Is done. Now rust and not come close to the treated surface. Perhaps the converter is really worth its money, and if it was not found, you can do everything yourself.