Noise has long been firmly included in the list of harmful production factors. Whole treatises are devoted to protection from noise. They fight noise at industrial enterprises, in offices, public places and even on the street. Why should a car be different? Moreover, the car's interior, by no means, is not a factory workshop and assumes a certain level of comfort ...

Поездку в автомобиле, созYesющем «какофонию soundов», сложно назвать приятной или комфортабельной. К тому же она небезопасна: посторонние шумы отвлекают и утомляют водителя, снижая его внимательность, время реакции, способность оценивать дорожную обстановку.

Content

• 1 Enemy need to know in person
  • 1.1 Nature and sources of noise
  • 1.2 Methods of reducing noise
  • 1.3 Materials used in vehicle noise insulation
  • 1.4  The use of soundproofing materials in the car
• 2 What you need for sound insulation car
• 3 Technological methods for performing sound insulation of a car
  • 3.1 the order of denoise door
  • 3.2 Noise isolation of other elements of the car

Enemy need to know in person

Да-Yes, шум – это именно враг, а не просто беспокойный сосед. Поэтому шум в автомобиле необходимо победить или хотя бы ослабить до возможных пределов. А для этого нужны знания о его природе, причинах и местах появления, метоYesх обесшумливания, ассортименте vibroпоглощающих и soundоизолирующих материалов. ТогYes шумоизоляция автомобиля своими руками принесет ожиYesемый эффект.

Nature and noise sources

Физические свойства шума определяют деление на группы. В автомобиле присутствуют два виYes шумов:

1. Structural. It arises due to the action of vibration on the obstacles arising in its path, for example, body parts, bottoms, and various partitions. Obstacles, in turn, create fluctuations in the air in the cabin, i.e. noise appears. The main sources of vibration are the engine, suspension components, exhaust system, chassis, transmission. A particular structural type is the impact noise that occurs when the tires hit the pavement or pebbles on the bottom of a car.
2. Air (aerodynamic). Penetrates the car from the street through the existing gaps and leaks. An example is the non-adherence of body parts to each other, poor seals, open technological gaps, etc.

Noise reduction methods

The fight against noise pollution is conducted consistently by two methods: first, constructive, then - passive.

Constructive - this is the elimination of noise and vibrations generated by the structural units and units of the car. Includes:

• adjustment of the engine, ignition systems and fuel;
• adjustment of transmission units;
• adjustment of elements of the suspension and exhaust system;
• undercarriage adjustment;
• tightening and sealing fasteners between body parts;
• уплотнение окон и дверей эластичными of the materialми;
• cleaning / replacing the air filter.

Noise isolation trunk will not be complete if you do not process a niche for the spare wheel

Passive выполняется в два этапа. На первом производится обесшумливание при помощи материалов, которые поглощают и/или изолируют soundовые колебания и вибрацию, а также различных уплотнителей. Шумоизоляции подлежат следующие узлы и элементы автомобиля:

• doors;
• salon floor;
• roof (ceiling);
• sidewalls of the body;
• hood;
• motor bulkhead (shield);
• dashboard;
• trunk;
• wheel arches.

Вторым этапом пассивного метоYes избавления от шума является применение защитных кожухов. Но на практике встречается достаточно редко из-за дороговизны и сложности.

Materials used in vehicle noise insulation

The range of materials is so wide that it is time to get lost in this abundance. Table 1 presents the materials for soundproofing a car that are in the greatest demand among motorists and have good reviews. These specifications will help determine the choice of soundproofing material for each specific task.

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Table 1. Materials for sound insulation of the car

Name of the material	Brand of the material	Weight 1 m2	Thickness	Protection	Heating during installation	Note
kg	mm	vibro	sound
roplist	Silver	3,0	2,0	Yes	Yes	not	Instead of M1
Gold	4,0	2,3	Instead of M2
Spoiled	Bomb	6,0	4,2	40-50ºS	Compaction, теплоизоляция
Splen	3004	0,23	4,0	not	18-35ºS
3008	0,37	8,0
Bitoplast	5 Gold	0,4	5,0	not	Compaction, антискрип
10 Gold	0,56	10,0
Madeline	-	0,4	1,5	Compaction
Accent	10 LM KS	0,53	10,0	Compaction, теплоизоляция

All of the above materials for sound insulation have a layer of adhesive, protected by moisture-resistant paper.

Pay attention to the weight of one square meter of material: this is an important indicator that cannot be ignored. Noise noise, but to kill his "swallow" is not worth it. For example,

• overloading the doors will cause loosening and sagging of the hinges, which will make it necessary to replace them;
• a heavy ceiling will raise the center of gravity of the car, as a result of which it will lose maneuverability and become poorly controlled;
• weighting the hood will increase the load on the shock absorbers and after a short time they will necessarily flow.

 The use of soundproofing materials in the car

Parts that are subject to heat should be removed from heat resistant materials.

В зависимости от технических характеристик и физических свойств материалов определяется их пригодность и эффективность для выполнения тех или иных заYesч шумоизоляции автомобиля. Таблица 2 содержит рекоменYesции по применению шумоизоляционных материалов.

Table 2. Applicability of noise insulation materials in the car

	Вибroplist	Spoiled	Splen	Bitoplast	Madeline	Accent
Trunk	Yes	not	not	Yes	not	Yes
Body sides	Yes	not	not	Yes	not	not
Doors	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	not	not
Hood	Yes	not	not	Yes	not	Yes
Wheel arches	not	Yes	Yes	not	not	not
Roof (ceiling)	Yes	not	not	Yes	not	not
Motor partition	yes (from the salon)	Yes	Yes	yes (from the salon)	not	Yes
Dashboard	not	not	not	not	Yes	not
Salon floor	Yes	not	not	Yes	not	not

Spoiled Bomb также применяют для шумоизоляции карYesнного вала и пространства над глушителем. Bitoplast успешно используется при обесшумливании пластиковых деталей в салоне. Madeline можно применить для устранения неплотностей (щелей, зазоров) между декоративными элементами кузова и салона, а также в целях уплотнения воздуховодов.

What you need for sound insulation car

Be prepared that the full sound insulation of the car will take about two weeks, if you work alone. With an assistant - about one and a half. You can perform work in parts, but in this case, careful planning is necessary. Otherwise, you will have to perform the same operations twice. For example, remove and reinstall the seats. To perform the sound insulation of the car will need simple tools:

1. Giprochny knife (this is a knife designed for cutting sheet drywall).
2. Rubber roller for rolling (rolling) glued noise insulation for better adhesion to the surface of the part. Sometimes the instructions confuse "God's gift with scrambled eggs" - the wrong name is given "squeegee".
3. Hairdryer construction - some materials require heating during installation.
4. Degreaser.
5. Scissors.
6. Marker.
7. Roulette.
8. Glue if not self-adhesive material is used.

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And also stock up with a thin cardboard or paper (even a newsprint will do) for making patterns. This will make it possible not to overuse the noise insulation materials, but, on the contrary, to save them. In addition, insulation will clearly fall into place, which will significantly improve the quality and efficiency of the work performed.

Technological methods for performing sound insulation of a car

Experts strongly advise to begin the process of obesshumlivaniya with doors. There is a reason for this: noise insulation of the doors will allow you to immediately feel the effect in the form of a significant reduction in street noise and inspire new “feats”. Fans of high-quality music playback will certainly notice an improvement in sound, especially if the speakers are mounted in the door. In addition, isolating doors from noise does not require dismantling of seats, dashboard, etc. But do not expect quick work to be done (approximately: one day - one door).

Door denoising procedure

In this process, there is nothing complicated, but care and attention are required:

When removing the door trim, try not to scratch the plastic and paint

• dismantling plating. To do this, remove the door handles and window (if any). Detach the mounting caps (“bugs”) with a screwdriver, tucking it between the casing and the door. If the location of the fastener is not known, then it is better to wrap the screwdriver with tape in 2-3 layers - the paint will not be scratched;
• providing access. Move the power window wires (if it has an electric drive) or disconnect the connector. Disconnect the door handle cable. If there is the slightest opportunity not to touch the wires and cable, then use it: during assembly may be difficult. In the presence of plastic film - tear it off and throw it away (no need later);

  

  Cut out sound insulation materials only after careful fitting.

• surface preparation. Clean all treated surfaces from dust and degrease well. Remove the factory gasket (optional - it will not interfere with the labeling of new materials);
• Removing the internal cavity of the door. The outer wall (from the street) is covered with vibration-absorbing material. It is important not to close the drainage and ventilation openings. You can use Bemast Bomb or Vibroplast Silver / Gold (2 layers). The second is preferable, because does not require heating. Properly roll the surface so that there are no voids and a reliable grip is obtained. Over the vibration absorber, the Splenitis 3004 insulation is pasted (with a slight preheating);
• обесшумливание двери из салона. В местах прилегания обшивки следует наклеить полоски Bitoplastа 10 Gold шириной 20-30 mm, чтобы созYesть уплотнение и избавиться от скрипов. Можно оклеить дверь всплошную;

  

  After soundproofing stickers, the door should look something like this.

• restoration of plating details and mechanisms.

Noise isolation of other elements of the car

Для шумоизоляции остальных частей автомобиля применяются те же приемы, что и при обработке дверей. По таблицам 1 и 2 необходимо выбрать подходящий материал. Затем разобрать интересующую часть автомобиля, демонтировав все мешающие работе детали. Далее последовательно выполняются очистка и обезжиривание поверхностей, раскрой of the material, наклейка vibroизоляции (при необходимости) и шумоизоляции. Сборка в обратном порядке по отношению к разборке.

Below are some of the nuances that are important when soundproofing a car:

• when joining materials it is necessary to overlap, with overlapping of 4-5 cm;
• the thinner the metal of the part, the thicker the insulation layer must be;
• the thickness of the materials to be laid must allow the subsequent restoration of the skin;
• в местах трения пластика о металл обязательно прокладывайте слой Bitoplastа;
• when soundproofing the hood and engine bulkhead, materials with heat insulating effect should be used, for example, Accent;
• insulation of the bottom and wheel arches outside is done with mastics. It is advisable to produce in conjunction with anti-corrosion treatment.